Climbing Mt. Shuksan

Note: Mt. Shuksan climbing programs can be run in a seminar format by adding a day/night at the high camp. The extra day can be used to learn additional mountaineering techniques like: anchors, crevasse rescue and ice climbing. All Mt. Shuksan climbing programs incorporate a summit attempt.

We have arranged private guiding and instruction for individuals, families, groups, women only adventures, all over the world including trips right here in The Pacific Northwest on mountains like Mt. Rainier, Mt. Shuksan, Mt. Olympus, Mt. Adams and many other mountain in The North Cascades National Park.

This crown jewel of the North Cascades is one of the most beautiful mountains in America, and our guided climbs of Mt. Shuksan are unforgettable.  The majestic approach is through alpine meadows abounding with wildflowers and mountain goats. The guided climb of Mt. Shuksan is via Sulphide Glacier to the base of the summit pyramid. There is 400 feet of rock climbing (scrambling!) to the 9,288-foot summit. On the descent you get to do multiple rappels to the base of the glacier, which is a great way to learn how to rappel and we provide instruction. High camp is at the “toe” of the glacier in the meadow. In this amphitheater of the North Cascades, you are surrounded by jagged peaks with Mount Baker looming in the distance.

Special use permit issued by North Cascades National Park.

Itinerary

Day 1
Flights from home to Seattle, Washington (SeaTac Airport – SEA). Overnight at airport hotel or drive north to Burlington, Washington, and stay at a hotel there.

Day 2
Group meets at 8:00 a.m. for breakfast in Burlington. Equipment check and last minute food and gear purchases in Burlington. Drive to trailhead for Mt. Shuksan. Hike to camp at the toe of the Sulphide Glacier. Overnight in tents.

Day 3
Summit day on Mt. Shuksan! Glacier travel right out of camp traversing the Sulphide Glacier to the base of the summit pyramid. Interesting rock climbing and scrambling to the summit of Mt. Shuksan. Rappel of the summit (instruction provided) and traverse back to our camp at the toe of the Sulphide Glacier. Overnight at camp in tents.

Day 4
Descend to trailhead and drive to Burlington for a celebration lunch! Overnight at SeaTac airport hotel.

Day 5
Flights home.

Mt. Shuksan climbing programs can be run in a seminar format by adding a day/night at the high camp. The extra day can be used to learn additional mountaineering techniques like: anchors, crevasse rescue and ice climbing. All Mt. Shuksan climbing programs incorporate a summit attempt.

A detailed final itinerary will be e-mailed to enrolled participants 30 days prior to departure on international trips and 14 days prior to departure on domestic trips.

Experience Requirements

The trip can be a two-day express climb or a three-day climb. Additional days can be added if you want a seminar format. The Fisher Chimney’s route is more challenging and is provided on a custom basis.

Equipment List

Clothing:

Synthetic long underwear top and bottom

Expedition weight long underwear top or wool shirt

Pile or thick wool sweater

Pile or thick wool pants

GORE-TEX® jacket

GORE-TEX® pants or bibs

Down jacket

Gaiters

Wool or pile cap

Face mask or balaclava

Heavy insulated shell gloves

Pile or wool gloves

Heavy mountaineering socks

Liner socks

Baseball cap

T-shirt

Hiking shorts

Gear:

Full size pack – 5000 to 6000 cubic inch capacity

Sleeping bag with stuff sack- rated to at least 20 degrees Fahrenheit

Sleeping pad

Plastic or leather mountaineering boots that can be used w/ crampons †

Snowshoes †

Avalanche transceiver †

Crampons – fitted to your boots †

Ice axe – 60 to 70 cm long †

Climbing harness †

One large pear shaped locking carabiner †

One mechanical ascender with one non-locking carabiner

Climbing helmet †

Ski poles – with the baskets attached †

Head lamp- with a new battery and spare bulb †

Dark glasses – with side shields and UV rated

Ski goggles or spare glasses

Two water bottles – 1 liter wide mouth with a personalized identifying mark

Pocket knife

Sunscreen – spf 15 minimum

Lip balm- spf 15 minimum

Eating utensils – bowl, insulated cup, spoon

Camera and film

Iodine tablets

Personal lunch – for three days

† Items with an asterisk are available for loan from Northwest Mountain Guides